Alison Cook’s HTown

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Alison Cook's HTown The food, the foibles, the city

  • A pretty perfect brunch
    by Alison Cook on August 26, 2026

    Brunch gets a bad rap, which makes me sad, especially in the wake of my pretty perfect brunch experience at Camaraderie last weekend. It was terrific, from the ping-pong-ball-sized Swedish pancakes filled with lingonberry jam, to a meticulous lobster omelet and beyond.Alas, brunch's reputation

  • So a snob walks into Perry's Baybrook
    by Alison Cook on August 20, 2026

    On a red-hot Sunday afternoon at 4 30 pm, I presented myself to the host desk of Perry's Steakhouse & Grille at the Baybrook Mall.Not my usual stomping grounds, but I was there for a birthday party. Or so I thought. The kind young women manning

  • The taste of disappointment
    by Alison Cook on August 17, 2026

    "This salad is hideously sweet," I groused to my friends over an April dinner at Osteria di Mercato. The blue-chip corner import grocery turned Italian restaurant was packed and noisy, full of people having a high time.Not me. That romanella salad had arrived piled high and

  • Burger Friday: Rosewater
    by Alison Cook on August 14, 2026

    I ate a backwards supper this week when I had business down in the Bay Area. First, I stopped in at the mothership Cosmic Ice Cream, whose products I adore. The family-owned shop has locations in Spring Branch and Pearland, too. The original Cosmic is a modest slot in

  • My new favorite pizza
    by Alison Cook on August 6, 2026

    My friends are going to get sick of hearing about the Black Gold pie at Angie's Pizza, the new Heights pizza-and-pasta restaurant from Angelo Emiliani. I can't seem to shut up about it: the magnificent wood-fired crust, bubbled and singed, forcefully leopard-spotted

  • Why you need a fig tree
    by Alison Cook on June 30, 2026

    You have a fig tree in your Houston backyard, right? Right?????If not, make plans to plant one this fall, after the heat subsides. It will improve your life. I know because there were two fig trees on my property when I moved to the East End's Idylwood

  • A sandwich saved me from myself
    by Alison Cook on April 28, 2026

    Perhaps you have noticed that I quit writing here a couple of months back. The state of the world just overwhelmed me. I cocooned. I quit making plans save for the rare occasions friends pried me out of the house. So what changed? Well, La Rosa, a new neighborhood sandwich

  • Is there such a thing as too many Danish pastries?
    by Alison Cook on February 2, 2026

    Why, no, there is not. At least when you're eating them in Copenhagen, as I discovered in December when I spent a chilly week in Denmark's capital city. My lap and my tabletop and my enormous fake fur coat were continually showered with flakes of shattery,

  • A food writer's sermon
    by Alison Cook on February 1, 2026

    The longest January I remember is over. At last. Even safe in my East End nest, I feel pummeled and bruised—in a spiritual way, which by no means compares to what my brethren in my late mother's birthplace of Minnesota have endured. Are enduring still. It

  • My Scandi-noir Christmas
    by Alison Cook on December 24, 2025

    You should have seen my tourist-rube face as I stood in Kongens Nytorv for the first time a few weeks back. I gaped like a 7-year old, transfixed by a baroque skyline etched in Christmas lights, while skaters plowed through rough rink ice at the heart of Copenhagen&

  • How I failed the Pan de Muerto Challenge
    by Alison Cook on November 12, 2025

    Every year now in October, I begin following the X/Twitter exploits of Rodrigo Delgado, the Mexico City food writer and flaneur who makes it his business to sample and rate every possible pan de muerto in the capital city. He calls it the Pan de Muerto Challenge. This year

  • Happy Cabbage Night: a postcard from Vermont
    by Alison Cook on October 30, 2025

    When my sister emailed today to say "Happy Cabbage Night," it took me back to the Vermont of my childhood and teens. There, the night before Halloween was the time for tricksters to perform the misdeeds that characterize what other North American regions and states call Mischief Night,

  • Must-have: Cafe de Abuelita scoops at Cosmic Ice Cream
    by Alison Cook on October 30, 2025

    Why yes, it's still ice-cream season.In my world, anyway, that season never ends. No nip in the air dulls my enthusiasm for one of mankind's greatest inventions. Especially when I am faced with a double scoop from the estimable Cosmic Ice Cream shop in

  • Stuffed Belly sandwiches from chef Christine Ha
    by Alison Cook on October 27, 2025

    File the egg-salad sandwich from chef Christine Ha's Stuffed Belly drive-thru in Spring Branch under "things I didn't know I needed." It reminds me of snuggling into a favorite down comforter.I love egg salad. I make it at home, using the

  • First taste of Hugo Ortega's new Zaranda
    by Alison Cook on October 22, 2025

    Now that I'm not a professional restaurant critic anymore, I can do things I never used to. Like show up at chef Hugo Ortega's new downtown restaurant, Zaranda, when the doors open for their first official dinner service.That's how eager I was to

Alison Cook’s HTown
Alison Cook in an omnivore, part-time misanthrope, rabid Houstonian. She is a lapsed restaurant critic and newsletter writer at Alison Cook's HTown.